Remember that you can click on the pictures to enlarge them or leave the arrow on the picture for a small caption...but I'm sure that you already know that.

November 1rst, 2002 Day 56
Trip = 89km[55.43mi] ATD = 2640km[1641mi]

November 2nd, 2002 Day 57
Trip = 113km[70.31mi] ATD = 2754km[1712mi]

Today sucked. It was rainy, flat tires galore, and cold. Our two weeks and one day spent in Kansas state were terrible minus the friendly people and our two days in Manhattan. Other than that it was a memory that will be etched into my mind forever, regrettably. One might say that we must look ahead to the broadening horizon. Unfortunately, we haven't seen the sun in 14 days (honestly) and so the horizon is nearly impossible to spot. Woe is me, I know I sound like a broken record but tonight we found out that we are closing in on financial ruin so my mood is one that is bleak at best...sue me.

Tomorrow we will finally be in Missouri. I don't know what this new state has in store for us but I look forward to leaving Kansas. I know that they are just abstract borders but perhaps there is something that will instigate a revival of this bike journey. I was going to tell a story but I'll save it for a sunny day.

November 3rd, 2002 Day 58
Trip = 40km[24.81mi] ATD = 2796km[1738mi]

November 4th, 2002 Day 59

Well, today has started with a hangover. Apparently, while we are in financial dire straits we attempt to drown our sorrows at the local biker bar. We met Dave and the head of some bike gang (Dennis?) who showed us a great time. It was easy to get intoxicated because of the definite lack of substance in my system. I ate four pop tarts and some chips and salsa. This all equates into a vicious hangover and some hazy memories. Ian says he remembers very little.

Yesterday's bike ride was very short. We got to the other side of Kansas City, into Missouri, when Ian got another flat. I believe that's an even dozen for Ian. I'd like to mention, just for the hell of it, that I've only got two flats while biking and four slow leakers over night. Anyways, we don't have any back-up tubes so we'll get some today and if we can afford it, we'll eat. Tomorrow, we head south, seriously!

November 5th, 2002 Day 60
Trip = 100km[61.98mi] ATD = 2896km[1800mi]

November 6th, 2002 Day 61
Trip = 100km[62.10mi] ATD = 2996km[1862mi]

I believe I owe people an apology...no one wants to open up my journal entries and read a whole bunch of whining from me. It's annoying, completely unnecessary, and definitely overly melodramatic. Our journey has had a lack of insatiable "good times" and there has been a certain absence of "cultural realization" but what can one expect? We've travelled through the mid-west, and although I do my best to avoid stereotyping anything (I think), the mid-west has lived up to it's monotonous reputation. I'm afraid I'll offend the kind, generous people of the mid-west who have been nothing short of a phenomenal host but I am more afraid to mislead people that decide to follow in our path. Take from my experience what you want, I'm just a narrator in a story that is just beginning.

We are now officially done our training months. I wouldn't go so far as to say that I am in my pinnacle of fitness but I have achieved some goals which is all I can ask. Ian continues to read the sagas of other cyclists and how we compare to them but I could honestly give two shits. We're doing well and considering the shape Ian started in, we have improved leaps and bounds.

Interesting facts? Hmmm, let's see...yesterday's ride was the easiest we've had to date. The wind was at our backs and the ride was mostly downhill. We rode 100km[62mi] in three hours and thirty minutes...as I said, I don't know how that compares to the cycling gurus of the world but I'll take that time any day of the week.

Today's weather was beautiful! We saw the sun for the first time in fifteen days. I was actually able to ride in shorts and long sleeves...my feet maintained feeling...I didn't wear a toque or mittens...it's supposed to be warmer tomorrow...YEEEEHAAAAW! Today's ride was not as easy. The wind was directly to our side and it is getting noticeably hillier as we approach the Missouri/Arkansas border (we should reach that border in a couple of days). Our plans are very sketchy coming into Arkansas. We don't know if we should head straight for Memphis to take the shortest route possible to Tampa Bay or if we want to head to the gulf coast and take it around to Tampa Bay. We are concerned about the weather, of course, but we also have a schedule to maintain. We want to be in Tampa Bay so that we can take a Greyhound up to Atlanta for the Dave Matthews Band Concert on December 11th. Enough horsing around, we're heading south either way!

You may ask yourself, "Self, how is pJ's partner (or Ian) doing?" Well, Ian has his own accomplishments that he may to be too modest to brag about. Through just under 3000km, Ian has set records in both tubes used (8) and flat tires (14). That's right, fourteen! Personally, I think the cause is a combination of factors. If you omit environment such as rocky shoulders, and inexperience such as faulty patch work (that excuse just doesn't cut it anymore, for either of us), you would have to blame the rest on Ian's knack for tinkering with his equipment and just plain ignorance. Ignorance is not a harsh statement although I am only talking about one particular situation. It involves an individual taking his muddy tire, depositing it into the bathtub for future washing, and leaving the hot water on full blast. I admit, I may be partially to blame because I did something similar, minus the hot water, minutes before. I should've been paying closer attention, I could have disrupted the sequence that caused Ian to blow a hole through his tire because of the mind-boggling pressure caused by the steamy water. That's right, you heard me right, not only the tube, but the actual tire. Let us take stock of the situation, which I'm sure he'll be very light-hearted about when confronted. He is now riding on my back-up tire (he has already destroyed his original (another rookie mistake) and his back-up) and his tenth tube (no worries, we replaced the back-ups he took from me). Indeed, he may be too modest to mention these records but I want to make sure credit is given where credit is due.

To mention Ian's gaffs without giving mine notice is selfish. As you have seen in previous journal entries, I have been in downtrodden spirits as of late. I am not a moper and I don't sit idly in times of crisis but I would say that my technique in dealing with problems can take a sharp turn to the extreme occassionally. I cannot remember the last time I have snapped on a person. My view on that, seriously, is that one has to look pretty deep into themselves before they can even attempt to blame someone else. For me, this rule does not apply to inanimate objects. I will make all efforts to avoid abusing someone else's possessions but if I am angry(occassionally) or embarassed(rarely) or frustrated(frequently) I will take the brunt of my fury on the next thing of mine I can punish. I apologized to you earlier and now I apologize to U-doubs...my bike, the Ultimate Warrior. I know, how could I be so callous to my survival, my very soul of this long, arduous journey? I fell down, again, while at a complete standstill (a record I will hold until I die). We had just crossed Kansas City and had to stop because of one of Ian's infamous flats, we had travelled an extra five miles to yet another bike shop that was closed, I had scarcely eaten (if I haven't eaten, you don't want to know me), and in general, we had just experienced another shitty day...then, I fall...snap, I lose it, I squirm out of the vulnerable position my bike has me pinned in, take one look at Ian who is stuck between a laugh and a hesitant guess as to what I'm going to next, and then I laid a kick into my bike. I know, I sound insane and you're probably right. No worries, my baby has a slight dent but because I pulled up in one last ditch effort to hang onto sanity, I didn't kick her with my full weight, therfore she's ridable and tougher than she was before...and yeah, I know, I'm an idiot but at least I'm passionate.

Tomorrow, we head for Springfield, MO. Cool, heh? I don't think this is the home of the Simpsons because I don't think it snows there but still, we're headed to Springfield, USA. We have to hit a bike shop because of Ian's constant use of all the equipment...other than that, peace out to all you gorgeous people out there!

November 7th, 2002 Day 62
Trip = 66km[41.07mi] ATD = 3070km[1908mi]

Happy Birthday, Jeanette!!!!!!!!!!!

Today was beautiful!!! It reached 70F (20°C) which thwarted all attempts by the fierce head-wind to dampen my kindred spirit. Shorts and a short sleeve, now that's beauty biking weather! This, combined with the amazing scenery that has sprouted from the once barren earth, has produced really enjoyable rides. Missouri has been a beautiful state. We rode into Springfield, MO and started running errands immediately upon entering the city limits.

The most intriguing errand we ran began in a bike shop named Sunshine Bike Shop. We were greeted by Geoff who was enthusiastic about our bikes and journey from the moment we walked in the door. Anything we needed for our bikes magically appeared in his hands...plus, he was wearing a Grateful Dead shirt...we were in safe hands. As we were collecting our equipment, a man named Gary walked in. After hearing about our trip, he offers us some dinner at his restaurant just across the street. Cartoon's Oyster Bar & Grill has tasty foods and beverages with a live show...good times, I guarantee. After dinner, Gary took us downtown to check out the sites and have a couple. Really had an awesome time in Springfield!

At dinner, we met a couple gentlemen named Hoss and Doug. So we got to talking and...no, wait, I don't want to write about what's going to happen, I want to write about what did happen...but we got huge plans and I'll let you know how those fair in the days to come. I don't want to ruin the ridiculous situation Ian and I have gotten ourselves into for this weekend. Until then, hasta luego!

November 9th, 2002 Day 64

Spontaneity is the spice of life. Now, as I mentioned earlier, we were talking to Hoss and Doug in Cartoon's Oyster Bar and Grill in Springfield, MO. What you don't know, is that we're currently 300 miles south and a little bit west of Springfield in a small town called Dallas, Texas...YEEEEEEHAAAAAWW!!!!

Hoss was talking to Ian and I and listening with interest to our plans to bike through Arkansas. "There is no way in hell that I'm letting you bike through Arkansas. You're coming with me to party in Dallas for the weekend." I needed no convincing but Ian waivered momentarily. His concerns were legitamite...our lack of funds being the main problem. "Tell you what," Hoss retorts, "If I'm ever in Canada you show me a great time, end of story. Since you guys won't be going through Dallas, this may be your only opportunity to see this beautiful city." Ian was persuaded by the excitement that Hoss created. The next morning, we found ourselves loading up Hoss' truck and throwing our bikes on a borrowed bike rack. Six hours later, we were in Dallas, Texas.

Hoss has lived up to his word, showing us a wonderful time up to this point. We partied at The Blue Goose and Micks...these are bars in the Greenville area. Hoss has an awesome roommate named Chad and a bunch of really cool friends...I have had an excellent time, truly enlightening. We'll see what tomorrow brings, I'm sure it will be much more of the same.

November 10th, 2002 Day 65

I am of a woozy state today...Hoss delivered as promised and we had an amazing time, this weekend in Dallas was a beauty. With the help of his friends (Todd, Joe, Chad, Scott, Jason, Christina, Carrie, Lisa, and more that I'm forgetting) I had an experience of momentous proportions.

Last night, we went to a one of a kind party. Held in a beautiful home, full of what felt like Dallas' elite, intimidation fell by the wayside as we lived it up with a free bar and a surprisingly down-to-earth atmosphere. Even though we passed by fancy car after fancy car, the environment at the party was far from pretentious. It was amusing to see that any financial echelon has the same problems in party situations. I have noticed at all parties there are common themes that run rampant...everyone runs out of cigarettes (in the background of every conversation, "Do you have any cigarettes?"), there are always relationship issues (girls crying silently, men clenching and flexing in a "brave" show of restraint), and a constant flow of people that forms naturally (allowing everyone to see different people briefly enough to decide if they want to pick-up the conversation again). It is a very neat phenomenon that is worth watching. This was a better party than most, though, I must say...there were no confrontations caused by testosterone and by the time we left there was no one that I noticed stumbling blindly or puking in the garden. Oh well, that's just my opinion.

The generosity of our hosts in Dallas...mainly Hoss, Chad, and Todd...was invaluable. Not only did they show us a great time, they were selfless with their time and resources. We are already making plans to meet in Costa Rica and maybe Florida. Can't wait until we can repay their hospitality.

There was a brief time in which we were hesitant to come to Dallas. I am very happy that we were able to show some confidence in the unknown and take a step we would have regretted missing. Great people have been the highlight of this trip. Thank you, Life is Good!

Tomorrow, Hoss is going to take us to Shreveport, Louisiana...about 290km(180mi) east. From there, we plan to head southeast, just past New Orleans and to the gulf coast. Although there is supposed to be another cold front on the way, the weather has been gorgeous...approximately 25°C (77F). I'll talk to you soon, I hope!

November 11th, 2002 Day 66

That's it, the end of another chapter. We have now entered cajun country, Louisiana. Hoss was kind enough to take us to Natchitodes, LA where we will resume our biking towards the gulf coast. We are still heading south and the temperature is noticeably warmer at night which hopefully will influence us towards camping. We're going to need money for Florida if Dallas is any standard to live up to.

We have only been in Louisiana for a few hours but I have already experienced a few firsts: a) The population has turned to mostly afro-americans (is that the politically correct way of saying something like that?)...anyways, I'm not trying to offend people but there is definitely a majority of black people, b) we ate at Piroque's which served such deep south delicacies as alligator tail, crawfish effoutee, blue crabcakes, authentic cajun seafood gumbo, etc...I'm enamoured by their spicy food...mmm, tasty, c) on our way down to Natchitoches, I saw a couple bayous. The scene is quite trippy, with the trees rooted in water, water taking the place of land, dense vegetation, humid air...it's pretty and somewhat mysterious...it contrasts perfectly, as I assume nature should.

November 12th, 2002 Day 67
Day = 84km[52.42mi] ATD = 3154km[1960mi]

We rode to Alexandria, LA today. There is definitely a contrast in environment and culture here, all to my liking. The temperature was a comfortable 20°C (68F), slightly humid, winds from the north...perfect biking conditions. Everything is still very green, vegetation is dense, and most everything is downhill as we head for the gulf coast.

I am mesmerized by the accents, they're heavy but they are not as lazy as one might expect. I met a nearly toothless, black individual (I'm assuming from around these parts, I think the state uniform is overalls) who started a conversation with me at a gas station in a small town. The conversation involved the words "where, goin', alligators, sunshine state", a couple points at my bike, and contagious laughter by both of us. I think my whole role in the conversation was to smile, point at my bike with the gentleman, and laugh...it was beautiful!

I have had time to gain perspective on our time in Dallas. It was a constant whirlwind of action and between trying to remember all of my new friends' names and having the knowledge that I had to leave them just as quickly, I just don't think that I was able to show my gratitude enough. Some of them are planning to visit in Costa Rica but that is eternities away. Thank you, just one more time, to Hoss and Chad (for the infinite generosity and kept promises), Todd (for the laughs and the genuine friendship), Scotty (we all need a rockstar), and Christina, Carrie, and Lisa (for not telling the crew that I'm a complete dork). Oh yeah, and I apologize for any spelling mistakes on the names, I didn't have time to check I.D.'s. There are a precious few people that can let someone into their set world and treat them with the utmost respect and hospitality without regard for the burden they may cause. I admire the Texan crew for that and much more and I know that because of their selflessness my life's quality has increased. Truly a beauty time in Texas...looking forward to Florida and Costa Rica, my friends.

We are two biking days from Baton Rouge, the capital of Louisiana...that means that I will see the Gulf of Mexico in approximately 4-5 days if everything runs on schedule. I'm very excited, it will be my first time. I'm an east coast virgin, don't you know? Peace out!

November 13th, 2002 Day 68
Trip = 129km[79.92mi] ATD = 3282km[2040mi]

Today was a long riding day...not tough but long. Today's conditions were near perfect again with warm temperatures and light back-winds. Louisiana has had very little in the way of hills but it is so green! Definitely better than flat and barren like let me think...oh yeah, Kansas.

We cut a huge chunk out of our procession towards the coast. Tomorrow we head straight east to Baton Rouge, the capital of Louisiana. From there, we should head southeast and see the coast in a couple days.

Other than that, the day was pretty uneventful. I was going to create a rant tonight but I just don't have it in me...I'm pooped. Perhaps tomorrow or not...I know, the anticipation is killing you. Well, you'll just have to wait.

November 14th, 2002 Day 69
Trip = 100km[61.82mi] ATD = 3384km[2103mi]

Do you want to know what sucks about riding a bicycle into a big city? Other than the obvious smart remarks (yeah, yeah, look at you, you're SOOO clever) there is one thing I cannot stand...the extended time it takes to recover from a wrong turn. On a bike, one simple "larry" instead of a necessary "reggie" and you could be in no man's land for a couple of hours.

Ian and I did not get lost today but we did end up in the hood of Baton Rouge. Not so bad really, I think I'm "representin' the colors" just fine, "giving the props to the homeboys" in pleasant fashion, and "layin' it to my nines" with common courtesy in mind. We're still a little low on the "bling-bling" so Ian and I are just going to "lay low, keep it real".

I don't want to scare anyone so keep this in my mind when you think of a scary story. Today we crossed the Great Mississippi River. A magnificent sight, the sheer size of it dwarves the mightiest of men. The bridges that span this river literally burrow themselves into her shores, gripping everything with their mighty steel claws. These long, concrete connectors are massive in length, puny in width. Two lanes, that's it, heading east into Baton Rouge, LA on Hwy 190...no shoulder.

Ian and I approach the mighty beast with a nonchalant attitude, not wanting to disturb it's droning rushhour. Trucks and vans, cars and transports, twisted metal looking to get more twisted, ants marching. People, in general, are not in good moods in their cars...it's not often that you pull up beside a person smiling or laughing. It's not because they're embarassed to be seen smiling by themselves, it is because they are frowning or disconnected or worrying. This mass mood is embodied in rush hour and people are not looking forward to, let's say, two bikers on the bridge, squeezing an already tight two lanes into one and a half.

It was like we were scraping against the guard rail, cars dodging in and out to avoid the two retards on the bikes. When you see someone millimeters away from being involved in a potentially fatal accident, your perspective can become obvious and crystal clear. A pick-up truck with huge side mirrors motored by me, seemingly oblivious to our presence. The mirror missed Ian by less than the naked eye could see...I thought it grazed him! He lets out a yell (something almost ritual that we do for "close calls") but I was stunned into silence. That was way too close. When we finished our ride I was mostly introverted, I was focused on relaxing and eating. We had a pretty rough ride in and I was ready for the first motel we saw. It just so happened to be the All Round Hotel...after a fiasco involving pJ making a stupid decision and Ian running around with his head cut off, I have finally wrapped my head around the chances that we take to live life.

My friend, Ryan Penner (I think he's a genius), once shared with me a thought that I have hung onto. I was telling him that I was thinking of going skydiving when I noticed him shaking his head in disapproval. He tells me that he just couldn't see himself with St. Peter at heaven's door and when asked how he died have to tell him that he, "jumped from a perfectly running plane at 10,000ft." I asked myself how I would handle that situation and I have come to one realization...I could go to St. Peter and tell him this story and he would let me in. Do you know why? You can't have defining, life experiences without living for the pure definition of experience. Get it? St. Peter does.

Peace out, adrenaline junkies, I'll bring back another story in a couple of days. No worries, Ian's family, I told you I'll take care of it.

November 15th, 2002 Day 70
Trip = 42km[25.91mi] ATD = 3426km[2129mi]

November 17th, 2002 Day 72

Perception can turn realities into falsehoods, solid granite into molten magma, ketchup into tomato soup, or vice versa for that matter.

I sit at a campground just outside of Baton Rouge, $4.79 for me and my partner, but in no real fear of death or starvation, just in a self-lothing pit of the "how in the hell have I gotten myself into this situation"'s. This perception of life changed rather dramatically this morning as I took a gander at my e-mail.

My friend Allana was mugged last night in Thailand, by knife by some dim-witted purse snatchers. She is fine along with my friend Erin which is all that I care about. To compare my situation to their's is enough to make me sick, enough said.

I can, however, tell you what has happened since last I wrote. After leaving the glamorous All Round Motel, we headed towards the KOA (Kampground Owner's Association) just outside of Baton Rouge. After a short bike ride we set up camp and cooked up some Chef Boyardee Ravioli...mmmm, tasty? The next morning we packed up our site and headed out towards Hammond, LA which is home to another KOA. On our way down the road, we decided to have a quick Subway stop. Ian decided to hit up a bank machine and through this process he realized that he had misplaced his Mastercard.

This poses a serious dilemna considering that this piece of plastic had access to our only funds available. The rest of the story up to this point (me writing at a picnic table at the original KOA at Baton Rouge) is moot. We have atttempted to tap every available resource and now we are awaiting it's bleak outcome.

No worries, though, spirits are high at Camp Calamity, Bankrupt Bayou, On-site Overdraft, or whatever you prefer...another lesson of many has been learnt through experience. I can happily say that I am confident that we will survive, perhaps not comfortably, but with a stronger essence (or is that aroma?) and a deeper meaning. My friends Allana and Erin have taught me that.

Thank you to both my mother and Ian's parents for bailing us out of self-inflicted trouble. Your help has been instrumental to the continuation of this trip and we are forever grateful to you (I know, as if I wasn't already, mom).

Thank you for your support.

November 18th, 2002 Day 74
Trip = 57km[35.36mi] ATD = 3488km[2168mi]

After a three day rest at KOA-Denham Springs, we decided that a nice, short jaunt over to KOA-Hammond would be wise. Today's weather was gorgeous, topping off at 21°C (70F). Right now, I am comfortably sitting at a picnic table, clouds quietly drifing by the near full moon, temperature at a lovely 13°C (55F), writing to briefly allow you to escape the world that I miss so much.

Shut up, I'm thinking by pJ

Complete images busted in shattered mirrors,
One explosion to eradicate all fears,
Wake up to escape twisted thoughts,
Within this trip fall thickened plots.

Mind swirls, torso twirls,
Toothy grins from fat girls,
Molt from skin barely worn,
Choking on objects truly foreign.

Hazy clouds lift from a face,
The tide bends and stretches to stay in place,
Taut vines tighten on writers fightin',
The intensity grows as knuckles whiten.

Massaged backs, blackjacks, Christmas wraps,
Breathe easy, try and relax,
Panic swells, catch it before it starts,
Never alone, a sum of all parts.

Machiavelli told of two princes and their rule,
Do you know which one played the fool?
Smile, fair reader, it is not a test,
It is as it should be, as you might have guessed.

All I ask is that no one worries too much about that which they cannot control. Have faith in things that you don't understand yet you want to believe in...it is the very definition of faith, after all. This journey would not be successful without the loving support of family and friends...criticism and judgement should be for the outcome, not the duration.

Eat, drink, and be merry!!!

November 19th, 2002 Day 74
Trip = 98km[61.18mi] ATD = 3586km[2229mi]

Mentally, I was not there today...the ride seemed to take forever. Oh well, tomorrow's ride will be shorter, I look forward to it.

We rode from Hammond, LA to East New Orleans (we will go to the French Quarter of New Orleans on our loop back) today. Unfortunately, we were not able to see any of the cool stuff like Lake Pontchartrain or the Causeway Toll Bridge that crosses it due to stupid Hwy 190 being just miles too inland. Oh well, as I said, tomorrow is another day. I will see the Gulf of Mexico for the first time! We will be camping at the Bay of St. Louis, Mississippi. This is all very exciting to me and another milestone shall be toppled.

I am tired...time for bed or sleeping bag...whatever, good night and sweet dreams to all those that deserve it. November 20th, 2002 Day 75
Trip = 51km[31.56mi] ATD = 3638km[2261mi]

November 22nd, 2002 Day 76
Trip = 90km[55.70mi] ATD = 3728km[2317mi]

November 23rd, 2002 Day 78
Trip = 81km[51.26mi] ATD = 3810km[2368mi]

There are new pictures in my November entries...be sure to check them out!

We rode from East New Orleans to the Bay of St. Louis, Mississippi three days ago. It was a simple ride due to the fact that I could not contain my excitement over seeing the Gulf of Mexico. I was sooon to be disappointed. The people that we have talked to while we are camping at the other KOA's all talked very highly of the Bay of St. Louis...it did not meet their high praises. Don't get me wrong, it wasn't awful but the Gulf of Mexico is still two miles from the campground, not a short jaunt by any stretch of the imagination, and the facilities did not even compare to the other KOA's. Even though the Gulf of Mexico was in walking distance I did not see it for another two days, when we left the Bay of St. Louis for the Mississippi/Alabama border.

I sadly had to say a sorrowful and somber farewell to my dear frisbee. Some of you may be confused by my attachment to my frisbee but to understand a frisbee fully, one must realize that a frisbee is a multi-faceted device with more than its rudimentary function at your fingertips. I will not tell you the many tertiary uses of a frisbee for fear of ruining your own special relationship with your frisbee but rest assured, there is a plethora. Luckily, Ian and I picked up a couple of new frisbees from K-Mart on a rest day for our future heated matches of Frisbee-Golf (well, they will get heated as soon as Ian learns the physics of it all which, no doubt, he has nearly perfected). My new frisbee is called the Rocket Man...it's no Happy Face but it is a beauty!!!

The Gulf of Mexico is very impressive. Highway 90 follows the coastline for miles, white sandy beaches all the way. Unfortunately, the water is not enticing due to its brown, muddy appearance and the hurricane damage to the beaches causes admiration to happen from a distance. However, the sheer size of it is intimidating and the sun's reflection of the water is dazzling. I understand that as we approach Florida the water becomes the colors suitable for a postcard...I'm on my way!

We rode into Pascagoula, MS, about 5 miles from the Alabama border. End of story.

Today, we left Pascagoula to head for Mobile, AL. Crossing Mobile, AL was going to a challenge since it is built across Mobile Bay. Our plan was to hit a visitor information office before crossing to ensure safe passage. It was likely that we were going to have to hitch a ride across the tunnel system that connects the east and west parts of Mobile.

As we started our ride, we approached two bikers that we had passed the previous day. They were stopped so we stopped to talk to them. Helga and Bennie (the spelling of their names is off, undoubtedly, their names are foreign) were very friendly. They were quite the travellers and we swapped some brief stories for the better part of ten minutes. The conversation then turned to where each team was going and they showed us an alternate route that involved heading out to the coast, traversing a huge bridge onto Dauphin Island, and catching a toll ferry over to the other side of Mobile Bay. We decided to head that same route to avoid any trouble in Mobile.

Ian and I rode south towards Dauphin Island with high hopes and adventure in our blood. A ferry ride would be cool in the Gulf of Mexico even if it was short. Allow me to foreshadow...we passed a sign saying "ferry closed" but I was the only one that saw it and decided to ignore it. I wanted to follow my intuition or something stupid like that...cars continually were passing us towards the tiny island and the sign looked like it could have been there for months without anyone attending to it. After a 45 mile ride to the island we rode towards the east end to where the signs indicated the toll ferry docked. As you may have already guessed, the ferry was not running. Apparently, the ferry dry docks every second year for badly needed maintenance and repairs for a couple of months...so we were told by the lady at the campground that we chose for the night's disappointed slumber.

We were hungry so instead of setting up camp immediately, we decided to ride around the island to find some tasty seafood and a ride back up to Mobile, to be quite honest. I was very disheartened by our wasted ride and shaken by my temporary lapse in judgement. Of course, I didn't know that everything would turn out better than planned. Enter Jason and Adrianne into the story.

We were riding around aimlessly when two people approached us on bikes. They started up a conversation where they allowed us to tell them our story which I have a feeling they already knew. I'm thinking we made our frustration obvious when we found out we wasted an entire day on a dead end. Anyways, Jason and Adrianne (sorry if I spell your names wrong) almost immediately offered us a ride to Mobile taking sympathy with my pathetic display of navigational aptitude. We accepted in return for our offer of dinner (the least we could do) and new friendships were formed.

We had a wonderful dinner with quality conversation at Semolina's in Daphne, AL. You'll notice that it was not at Mobile because they were kind enough to bring us to the other side of Mobile so that we would not have to battle that aforementioned obstacle. I can't begin to thank them enough. Thank you, Jason and Adrianne, for your show of kindness. You have saved us from certain frustration and an extra day or two of biking, a huge deal when talking about the world of biking. We will visit when we return in a couple of months...hopefully the ferry will be up and running...we'll be sure to call ahead.

That's about it, dear readers. Oh yeah, Jones, I do not want to go out with you so I would appreciate it if you and your grubby paws would stay away from me and my "sensitive" side. How many times do I have to tell you that I just don't think of you that way, buddy? See you in Belize, Jonesy!

November 24th, 2002 Day 79
Trip = 74km[45.92mi] ATD = 3884km[2414mi]

Picked up some Stacker 2 the other day. Pop one in the morning and boom!...you're off to the races. I'll let everyone research their own reasons why we shouldn't be ingesting ephedra, I'm sure there'll be some doozies.

We are at KOA-Lillian, Alabama, situated on the west beaches of Perdido Bay. We are a bridge away from Florida! Tomorrow should take as to Fort Walton Beach, FL.

Today's side was uneventful although the cornucopia of greens does wonders for the mindset. I'm being wary, though, we are being chased by a cold front...stay tuned. I am writing to you from a dock, about thirty feet from the beach, in Perdido Bay. It is a little chilly out but the beauty, even at night, seems to subside any shivers. Lots of stars doubled in number through their reflection in the black depths of endless water. Tons of questions, two answers to each one, it is an invigorating calm, an excited lull, a soothing assault on the mind. Peace out, everybody!!!

November 25th, 2002 Day 80
Trip = 100km[62.44mi] ATD = 3984km[2476mi]

HAPPY BIRTHDAY, LITTLE SISTER!!!

The lay of the land has changed dramatically in the past few days. We are secretly (excluding the local fishermen) camping on the beach, a bridge away from Destin, FL. The weather has been awesome and the scenery exponentially improving as we crossed the Alabama/Florida state line...YEEEEEHHHAAAAWWWW!!!

Lately I have been feeling invincible on my bike. No fatigue, non-existent soreness, impeccable mental attitude. I think I might be getting a handle on this whole biking thing! Finally, after 4000km...of course, by saying this I have eternally jinxed myself...mental note to self, be prepared for cold front and some sort of freak mechanical problem or body failure.

Tomorrow we ride to Panama City, FL where we will hopefully be able to stay in a KOA...a shower would be nice. Also, I understand the Eskies lost...believe me, I feel the pain all the way down here. Oh well, now I won't have to be jealous of a celebration party although sometimes drowning the sorrows can be just as fun.

November 26th, 2002 Day 81
Trip = 113km[70.01mi] ATD = 4097km[2546mi]

November 27th, 2002 Day 82

Oh, the buttonhooks...we are in Panama City Beach, taking a day off from our ever-increasing pace but yesterday was a long ride. We headed out from Destin, FL and decided to take Scenic Highwey 30A...it was the right choice, we were biking through a very posh part of the gulf coast...villas and condo complexes with spanish-style roofing, extremely large mansions with white, sandy beaches as backyards, yuppy strip malls, it was all quite grandiose. Then the buttonhook.

Highway 30A dipped south but then rejoined Highway 98...on the map. What the map does not indicate is the fact that a bridge was out, apparently "under construction" like the ferry we didn't get to take. To make matters worse, no signs warning us of this were posted. As we retraced our steps I approximate an extra ten miles were added to the trip...gross.

We finally made it to Panama City Beach a little fatigued. Where was this KOA? We biked passed the area where it was supposed to be and continued along for about five mile. Where was this KOA? We stopped at a parking lot and I whipped out the maps in frustration...I didn't want to find out that I had led us astray...this time I didn't, we had passed where the campground was supposed to be. What the hell was going on? I decided to call the KOA and yell at someone about there terrible directions...unfortunately, I didn't get to talk to anyone because the KOA in Panama City Beach no longer existed...nice, really nice. In the KOA 2002 directory they have decided to make up locations to screw with my head. As per usual, everything worked out for the best.

Through our misadventures, we found a new friend named John. Hoss, you would not believe this but he knows Jim! Anyways, we partied up at Foghorns which apparently has their busiest night on Tuesday...good times had by all.

Today was nice and relaxing. I'm really excited to get to Tampa where Mike has come through for us...again. He has a house that we can stay at while we vacation in Florida while we adventure off to the Dave concert in Georgia, the Florida Keys, and Daytona Beach to name a few of our future destinations. Jealous? Mike, you continue to amaze me, thanks buddy.

November 28th, 2002 Day 83
Trip = 111km[68.73mi] ATD = 4209km[2616mi]

Today's ride was probably one of the easiest rides to date. Flat, with wind at our backs, we cruised 69mi in four hours to end up in Apalachicola, FL. This leaves only five more biking days until we're in Tampa and our first real vacation starts. I'm very excited and it looks like Ian could use some recuperation time. Highway 98 meanders close to the coast and when the water of the Gulf of Mexico is not visible, we are surrounded by dense forest. It's weird to see evergreens, deciduous foliage, and palm trees all in the same area. Of course, I'm no botanist but it just seems different...it may be very common, who knows?

Tomorrow we ride for the KOA at Alligator Point. It's more expensive than a lot of other campgrounds so it better be worth it. Alright, time for bed. Good night!

November 29th, 2002 Day 84
Trip = 1km[0.57mi] ATD = 4211km[2617mi]

I got hit by a car today...

November 30th, 2002 Day 85
Trip = 78km[48.20mi] ATD = 4312km[2680mi]

Yesterday an old guy hit me with a car. Ian and I left the Rancho Motel with hopes of making it to a campground at Alligator Point. Approximately three minutes after the start of the ride, I was lying face first on the pavement, trying to sort out why I was feeling anger at the driver instead of worry, fright, or other vulnerable emotions.

It was really quite a simple incident. I was riding along Highway 98 in Apalachicola when a huge boat of a family car driven by an older gentleman and his wife(presumably) pulled up beside me. Slowly, the car pulled ahead of me and makes a sudden right. This proceeds to block my entire path so instinct tells me to turn with him as I hurtled towards the passenger side door. I managed to turn myself sideways but forward momentum had slid me prone to the ground and agonisingly close to under the car. My face made contact with the road as I rolled with the slide, attempting to avoid any rigid connection involving my body and any inanimate objects. Panic only set in when my foot and ankle had swung awdwardly into the wheel well of the still moving car. I'm not sure of the physics of the situation but I was able to yank my limb from the crushing centrifugal force fo the wheel.

My injuries are minor compared to the potential that was apparent. A road strawberry on my cheek, the back of my right hand obtained a couple of minor scrapes, and my left hand has indeterminate damages as of yet. I may have a couple broken bones in the middle but there are too many scrapes and the swelling is a little abstract to ascertain a diagnosis. It's mobile and will not affect anything like biking, I hope.

Accidents happen to all of us...this misfortunate occassion gave us the occassion to meet two more wonderful people...Eric and Katie...they offered us a place to stay while we tried to organize the mechanics of my bike and the path to Tampa. My bike had some misalignments than needed adjusting to make it functional and thankfully Eric and Katie are bike enthusiasts (on temporary hiatus) and were able to get it road-worthy. The only thing that may keep us from travelling is Ian's knee which has started to act up again...let's hope for the best!

Eric and Katie have served up the best food I have eaten on this trip. They have a knack for cooking with the spices I love best...mmmm, tasty. Once again, we have met some of the ultimate characters in the world. Beauties, I tell you, just beauties.

On the same day as my accident, we went for a ride across to East Point. In competitive spirit, Eric and I raced ahead in a playful banter of drafting to see how fast we could get our bikes. I'm not sure of the speeds we reached but the feeling of riding without luggage was exhilarating! For those of you who don't know, "drafting" is a term used by cyclists (or race car drivers) to describe two or more racers using each other's resistance of the wind to conserve energy. The leader blocks wind for the rest of the team and has to work very hard. Although it may not seem like a cyclist can deflect alot of wind, it's the contrary that is true. If one is drafting off the leader, one has to do very little to stay two feet from the back wheel. Etiquette deems that the leader is switched off at intervals which allows everyone to participate as leader equally.

Anyways, Eric and I weren't really racing, we were drafting off each other to set a ridiculously fast pace. Awesome, just awesome!

Today we left very late for the campground. I was tired of imposing on Eric and Katie and I am on a mission to get to Tampa...four more biking days! See you soon, Mike!

It has not surprised me but I have not suffered any adverse affects from my accident yesterday. I'm not sure of that's healthy (nor do I care) but I am pleased with my psyche's reaction. All I need to be is traumatized...that would be great...a great waste of time. Anyhow, mentally and physically strong, for the most part, thanks for asking!

I'm all done for November, see you in December!

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