November 1st Day 56. Topeka, Kansas

Average Speed: 26.6 Km/h
Days Distance: 90.12 Km
Total Distance: 2566.65 Km

The two great things about today are this.

1.) We have one biking day left in Kansas State. Nothing against anyone from Kansas but I hated this state. It's flat on the west side and very unscenic until you get to about 200kms from the east border.

2.) The wind was finally at our back today. Not fully but enough to get 90 kms done with an average speed of almost 27 km/h. A solid ride.

I am feeling much stronger as well. My legs have more endurance and strength and I am noticing it on the hills mainly. Where I once climbed at 10 km/h, I am now at 18 or 19 km/h and holding it for a long time. It's finally really coming around for me.

Oh yeah, Topeka sucked.

November 2nd Day 57. Kansas City, Kansas

Average Speed: 23.5 Km/h
Days Distance: 115.30 Km
Total Distance: 2676.95 Km

A gross ride today.

Not slow or painful or anything, but very moist and dirty. By the end of the day it took almost 2 hours of cleaning to get all of the mud and dirt out of the bikes and gear. Still feeling really solid and am happy about that. I am also really glad that we are finally out of Kansas. Hopefully the weather will warm up enough for not-to-cold camping. I say that because right now the way it looks in the money situation we will be camping really soon. Maybe even tomorrow night. I am down to $260 with no money coming for at least 6 days. It's going to be tight for a while. Really tight...

I hate living day to day in wonder of where money is going to appear from. The two new tubes I bought yesterday both blew today. Dammit I hate losing new tubes so fast. So I hope the ones I have will last for a few months. I am warm for tonight but worried about money.

It's consuming me.

November 3rd Day 58. Kansas City, Missouri

Average Speed: 19.4 Km/h
Days Distance: 46.37 Km
Total Distance: 2723.32 Km

Kansas is acutally a fairly nice city. Kansas, Kansas that is.

Today we had planned on riding 80 miles...oh my god, I can't believe I just stated a distance in miles, sorry!...anyhow we were supposed to ride about 130 kms and many of them just to get out of the city. Actually geographically speaking, there are two Kansas City's. Kansas City, Kansas and Kansas City, Missouri. They just happen to be so close together, that they appear to be one big-assed city. It's huge! Bigger than what I remember Denver being even. But I didn't have to bike through all of Denver so I can't say fairly.

We biked through a rich part of town on bike trails that hugged the road we were travelling and even had part of the road painted off for bikes only, how nice of them. These were the last peddle strokes we did in Kansas State. I think nearer to where the Kansas/Missouri state border rolled under our tires, I noticed a drastic and immediate change in scenery.

The nice houses with big fluffy lawns were replaced with red and gray cement buildings that were cracked and crumbling all over. The well placed bike trails turned into warped and full of hole sidewalks. Which I didn't ride on very long for fear of bending my tire rims. And then....we hit Interstate 71 South and made the turn back onto the busy freeways.

I don't like riding on freeways I have decided. All vehicles go so fast and drive by so close it makes me nervous. I hate to think if one ever clipped my bike....but don't worry, I ride so far over to the right side that sometimes I actually hit guard rails with my bike bags. Speaking of freeway encounters...

Coming into Kansas yesterday, we rode in cloud covered darkness because of so much wasted time repairing numerous flats along the ride. 3 of them. There must be too much dirt inside of my tire and it's popping the tubes all the time. But riding in that darkness down the interstate was definitely the worst of freeway rides so far. Totally dark, light coming only from the numerous crazy drivers that pass by us on the inside lane allowing only seconds of the view ahead. And dirty. The shoulders have as much debris on them as some gravel roads.

Whenever I passed an exit or merging lanes, I would look behind me to see how much time I had to cross. In the day time it easy. Depth perception is much better in light than dark. So with only beams of sharp light becoming more blurry to use as judgement, I would wait for pin sized light, then go. I'm happy to report, I'm still alive. Back to the ride...

We turned onto I-71s (Interstate 71 South), through the skid area of town. Bang!

Holy fu**, god dammit, shit fu**ers. Another flat tire. I'm irrate at flat tires. Insanely sick of it. I am approaching 20 flats, 10 new tubes, and my 2nd tire replacement...already. So on the side of the still wet and muddy interstate, I start walking my bike up towards Pj who meanwhile had taken a wrong turn off the interstate and was no where to be seen. I caught a glimpse of him crossing a weedy knoll to get back on track. This whole day turned out to be a really cool sequence of events that led to a legendary night...more on the legend later!

Pj and I met up eventually, right near a Sports Store. How lucky are we? I mean we are out of tubes again and the last one blows near a sports shop. So I walked my bike over the ask for some new tubes. The didn't carry any but knew of a Cycle Shop only about 2-5 miles down Blueridge Road. And there just happened to be hotels close by as well. So I decided on another stay in Kansas City. Missouri this time. What a difference one night can make on a bike trip.

As I was changing over to our last tube to take us to the hotel and bike shop, some crazy guy on an old rickety 10 speed pulls up. "Daaaaaaam, you boyz on some sorta bike ride or somethin?" Ya something like that. This guy was definitely from this part of town. I don't really know what signaled me onto this, but the booze in the brown paper bag that he pulled out of his jacket to drink had something to do with it. I keep my beerz in my pocket when I'm ridin he says. Well thank god I had work to do. This guy wanted to talk and not any of our unresponsiveness or uncomfortable silence would shut him up.

So I continued to work on my bike and left the polite chit chat to Pj. I know he wasn't too happy about it. We took off right away after the bike was fixed up....to the Hotel. This is where the day really began.

Earlier on my nervous walk to the laundry mat 2 blocks away, I noticed a biker bar right across from our Hotel with free pool on Sunday nights. Well it being Sunday, god bless the 7th day, I decided to invite Pj out for a couple of beers. Well Bike Nites biker bar was awesome to say the least. Our one beer turned to two, to five, with tequilla shots (training for Mexico?) and you know the story.

Next thing I know I'm talking up a storm with Dave, the biker, what a great happy guy. And then I'm shootin the shit with this county's version of the Hell's Angels Chapter Leader. I forgot his name but man, we talked like we'd been bud's since childhood. What a super guy. A monster too...you could see it in him that his life has some intense stories to tell. You'd think I'd feel the least bit scared when he told me some of the things he seen and done, but nope. This guy knew I wasn't any trouble and was just there to have a good time. And that I had. Pj, meanwhile, was enticed into a conversation with Dave which I hear was quite funny as well.

We had a super time at this bar with the whole crowd being entertained by our loud shenanigans. The night ended with a super picutre of the partiers in the bar including one girl who must have thought we were taken pics for Girls Gone Wild videos. The girls have to flash their breasts to get on the videos. This girl whipped up her shirt and I took the picture. I would put it on the website but somehow it got erased from the camera. Neither Pj nor I know how it happened but we both blame each other.

November 4th Day 59. Kansas City, Kansas

We awoke to hangovers to strong to overcome today so we took off this day and quickly realized that we have $200 left. Pj had to borrow it from his mother. Thank you Marisol, we appreciate the many days of food you just bought us. I'll try to make more money so Pj doesn't have to borrow from you anymore.

So we are forced into camping again but all is not bleak. Missouri has welcomed us with great gifts and many omens, which I maybe am starting to believe in after reading The Alchemist twice now and contemplating a 3rd. Tomorrow we will head straight south in search of warmth and palm trees. So no, we are no longer going to St. Louis and are not worried about the distance we are adding or erasing by going to the Gulf of Mexico and then back up to Atlanta, GA to watch the Dave Matthews concert.

I am becoming less worried about the lack of funds right now, something will come up, I know it. I am still going strong after one day shy of 60 on this trip.

Spirits are soaring!

November 5th Day 60. Clinton, Missouri

Average Speed: 28.4 Km/h
Days Distance: 99.63 Km
Total Distance: 2822.95 Km

Well we just couldn't do it.

We are in a hotel again. On todays short trek, short time not short distance, we did 100 km's in 3 hours and 30 mins...that's fast. But that isn't the reason we are in a hotel, that would be stupid. On our lunch break, while still thinking we were going to camp, I noticed how quickly I became cold after getting off the bikes. It was apparent Pj was cold as well, with him saying how he was cold. My damp clothing, even tho they dry up fairly quickly would not keep us very warm while setting up camp. That process usually takes about one hour...which is plenty to freeze to death. Ok I exaggerate but we have become accustomed to instant warmth after our rides by staying in hotels. But I swear this is coming to an end.

Ya, I know you've heard that before. What's your point?

November 6th Day 61. Bolivar, Missouri

Average Speed: 24.0 Km/h
Days Distance: 99.88 Km
Total Distance: 2922.83 Km

Well I don't want to jinx anything...

And I know from the experience of 1 day shy of two months on the trip, that I have no idea what will happen in the next 2 days. But with the daytime weather forecasts by both the Weather Channel and the local news stations (very rare), it looks as though we are in for sunny skies and temps in the low 20's. So I am guessing that we will take advantage of those two days and bike on both days even though our past biking history rarely shows 4 biking days in a row, especially with a 7 day total of over 500km's, but it might happen!

The only things I can think of to stop it from happening, although as I write this sentence a whole slew of new things that can go wrong pop up in my mind, are condtions too windy or way to hilly. It's easier to deal with lots of hills that lots of wind. Unless it's at our back. So do me a favor if your readin this early enough. Cross your fingers, knock on wood, channel energy do whatever it is you do to send us luck.

I am still feeling stronger even though I found todays ride a little tougher than the last. To be expected tho as it was wind at our backs and almost all downhill, not like today. We had a side wind at about 10-15mph. Pretty strong. They only slow me down a little, but they do slow me down. Our ride started out fairly flat today and I was worried as I experienced a small amount of knee pain for the first 41 km. But we rode the last 59 km's through beautiful scenery. Rivers, lakes...so many trees finally. And the last 30 km's we rode up and over the biggest hills we have seen in awhile. We are actually coming into the Ozark Mountains.

We made our 100 kms unscathed, except for another flat tire, yes mine. I also noticed my back tire, yes the one with the duct tape holding the tube inside the tire rather than the tire holding the tube in the tire, was wobbling pretty bad. Upon further investigaion through a process with a lot of tire inflating with a handheld pump which I now hate, it's tough, I found out my tire was done. Don't know why it's warped (ducttape over a gaping hole!?!) but it is. So I stole Pj's.

Oh yeah, when you click over to read Pj's less inticing journal entry after mine, he will babble on about my incompetance with tubes, tires, and patch-work. And some of it true, such as how looking back it seemed stupid to put my whole bike in the shower to clean it with hot water and not realize the heat would over pressure my tire to the point of blowing a hole through the side of my tire. Who thinks of those things, scientists? But his major error is that my patch-work has not failed me once. Not even one of my patches have caused anything but a solution. No mistakes, only getting better too. Im so good in fact I could probably patch my tire with only a half chewed carrot and a used flyswatter.

And one last thing to write about. I think I must be getting better at reading "the soul of the world" using omens. Do you recall me writing something along the lines of Missouri welcoming us so well, regardless of the money situation, and that meant the ride through Missouri should be good? Well today among all the things to look forward to such as; over 500km's in one week, through Missouri in only 6 days and the Dave Matthews concert, I am more extatic about finally being paid. Money was deposited into my account today by my in a tie for 1st Place for favorite sister, Margaret!

Yeeeeeee frickin haaaaaaawwww!

November 7th Day 62. Springfield, Missouri

Average Speed: 19.7 Km/h
Days Distance: 66.03 Km
Total Distance: 2988.86 Km

So I was wrong.

But being wrong never ended up being so cool before. We didn't ride 100km's and break 3000km's today, only 66 into a town called Springfield. Only instead of meeting "The Simpsons" we met Gary and Geoff. Geoff was the proud owner of the coolest bike shop that we have visited in the whole USA so far. Check it out his website! SunshineBikeShop.com. He was very interested in our trip and was a ton of help to us. Thanx a ton Geoff. After stocking us up with bike parts and a bunch of free goodies (spare tubes, patches, and clean shirts), Geoff introduced us to Gary.

Gary is a local of Springfield who happens to own his own restaurant, Cartoons Oyster Bar and Grille, at which he took us to and bought us a great supper. Gary also took us out to see a small bit of Springfield life as well. Thank you for your hospitality Gary. We really appreciate it! At supper we met Doug a good buddy of Garys, and Hoss a work associate of Dougs. Well over a few beers, we got to talkin with Hoss and he was pretty excited with what we were doing, but not where we would be biking through over the weekend...one day away from Little Rock, Arkansas.

Hoss told us that Arkansas, tho beautiful, would not be the safest of places to bike through. Well to me that wouldn't be the reason I didn't do it, I am going to bike through Central America, probably a little more dangerous than Arkansas. But Hoss offered us the opportunity to come to Dallas, TX for the weekend then drop us off where ever we wanted on Monday. Only one more obstacle to overcome, we couldn't afford it. Hoss didn't like that either and told us he would take care of us as long as we did the same when he came to Canada. Deal!

So we are off to Texas tomorrow. Won't hit any of the goals I talked of yesterday, but you know what? Who cares, I'm going to Dallas!

I told you I had no idea what would happen in the next two days. See ya Springfield and thanx Missouri...you were awesome.

November 10th Day 65. Dallas, Texas

By far the coolest weekend we have had on the trip so far.

Hoss lived up to his promise that this weekend would be an unforgettable time. It will never be forgotten, nor will the many friends we have made over the last three days. Hoss, Chad, Todd, Joe, Scott, Jonesy, Lisa, Kristina, Carrie, Sarah and god, so many more. Oh yeah, and just a note, Hoss turned out to also be the World Bench Press champion. Over 500 pounds...just a cool extra. Congrats Hoss, that's awesome.

We first met Hoss's roommate and a bunch of their buddies. Chad, Todd, Joe and Scott. These would be the four guys we hung out with the most over the weekend not including Hoss tho who partied with us the whole time. They are all really cool guys too, every one of em. Except how they thought it was funny to keep saying "eh". Ya'll know that shit ain't funny.

The first place we went to after drinking at Hoss and Chad's was the Goose. There I managed to piss off some Mexican guy just cause I was talking to some old lady about why she was wearing a Toronto Maple Leafs jersey in Dallas. Turns out they were playing the Dallas Stars and she came from the game. No problems arose tho as I was with enough guys that I didn't have to worry. From there it was off to Micks where we partied it up pretty hard till closing and talked to a whole bunch of new people who kept showing up. Including a guy named Todd who's house we went to to close out the night. Todd is a super cool Texan who I partied with a lot the next night, but more on that in a bit.

I was all partied out by 5:00am when we took a cab home. The next day we pretty much lazed around all day watching football and charging up for another killer night. On this fine evening of about 23 degrees celcius, we once again got a good base going at Hoss's and then headed out to a house party that Chad had heard about. Hey great work on scoutin this baby our for us Chad!

This place was way better than what I was thinking it would be. A hint that I caught early as we walked up to the house past BMWs, Corvettes, Audis, Porsches, Mercedes and even a Dodge Viper. We walked through the open front door into a beautiful house. The party scene was unreal...catered, free bar with a bartender, and the huge backyard was open for partiers to hang out in the nice weather. They even decorated with a lighting display that included an outdoor disco ball, and lighting in the trees outside. The party was full of doctors, lawyers, suits, and hot women all over the place. I mean, we almost felt out of place....almost. I felt a little uneasy at first, but quickly realized, that we were all here for one great reason, to have fun, and that is what we did. Everyone was very nice to us and we met a lot more great people.

We left there to two more smaller gatherings with Todd, who was making sure we were having a good time all night. Todd, thanx man! For sure you will be in the song I write about our time in Dallas.

Hoss and Chad, thanx for letting us stay at your place and showing us around Dallas. You were right, it was amazing. Hoss, thanx for taking us here and making this all possible. I really hope all you guyz do plan a trip down to Costa Rica to see us again. Keep in touch!

We leave again tomorrow out of Shreveport, Louisiana, Hoss is gonna drive us there, with about 1600 km's (1000 miles) left to bike into Tampa Bay, Florida. About 50-60 km's difference than what we had out of Springfield only much warmer. Even though a lot of people here said we wouldn't want to leave, I had a funny feeling I would. I had a great time in Dallas but I am already ready to get back on the road.

We made many new friends who I hope we can keep and more more to make. See ya again soon Texas! Thanks!

November 11th Day 66. Natchitoches, Louisiana

I keep thinking about the time we had in Dallas and I can't help but be so happy about the decision we made. Man...Hoss, Chad and Todd, you guys were the greatest. And now I am sitting here in our hotel room in Louisiana and I finally feel it.

"I didn't really know what it was I was looking for until I started looking for it."

That is the best way I can describe the way I feel about this trip and I hope this is just the tip of the iceberg. We are in a whole different world down here in Louisiana and I think it's amazing! I noticed how once we crossed into Louisiana, something in me sensed a big change. Not in my mood or spirit, but in my orientation. Geography is changing if front of my very eyes. And not only that, the air I breathe and the sounds I hear are now different and my whole body feels it.

It's a feeling I have felt before in Mexico the three times I went. Only this is much bigger as the feeling lasts longer now that everything is foreign to me. Even the people are a lot different. I love the changes in people and attitudes that happens just by going south.

Just one small story to tell. Our hotel was held up tonight! The way we found out was Pj went to the front office to ask where the closest store was for a late night snack. He was surrounded by police looking suspicously at him. But he didn't fit the profile of either of the two black men they were looking for. Scary eh? Not really, it could happen anywhere and anytime, we just happened to be there...then.

November 12th Day 67. Alexandria, Louisiana

Average Speed: 27.2 Km/h
Days Distance: 84.71 Km
Total Distance: 3073.57 Km

A quick and easy ride today to take us over 3000 kms total on this trip.

A nice way to break back into biking after the long unexpected break in Dallas. Louisiana is turning out to be quite nice with how much green is still left in it. The signs of their weather season changing to fall are minimal. A few leaves have turned color, fewer have fallen. Even the road kill has now changed. Along with cats, dogs, deer, skunks, racoons, weasels and birds, (did I leave any out!?), there are now also snakes, turtles and armadillos. Sorry, no pictures.

Only 2 days left into Baton Rouge, the Capitol of Louisiana, and maybe 4 or 5 until I experience the Gulf of Mexico.

Also the first pain in my ass has arisin. Don't know what's goin on there, but it's startin to hurt.

November 13th Day 68. Opelousas, Louisiana.

Average Speed: 24.8 Km/h
Days Distance: 129.09 Km
Total Distance: 3202.66 Km

A pretty big ride today. And I can't decide if it was boring or not. The ride was flat and dead straight. Like riding a stationary bike for 5 hours. But the scenery changes around you on the bike. Rivers, lakes, cotton fields and other types of fields that I haven't figured out whats growin in em yet. Maybe sugarcane? I dunno.

We also saw an amazing sight today. There was a marshy area with just thousands and thousands of little black sparrow sized birds swirling around in amazing patterns There were so many that they blackend the sky. Unreal...it even made me speak out loud to myself as we passed by them.

Everything is so green here...I love it!

November 14th Day 69. Baton Rouge, Louisiana

Average Speed: 23.7 Km/h
Days Distance: 102.28 Km
Total Distance: 3304.94 Km

Well we are here in Baton Rouge but not without stories to tell of todays events. I blew another tire today. We were about to head over the Atchafalaya River, a large offshute of the mighty Mississippi River, over a tall bridge with highway shoulders littered with metal debris. I hit one piece and ripped up my new tire horribley. After changing my tire and adding all my new "anti-flat-tire" gear we rode pretty much the rest of the way (60km) to just short of the Mississippi where Pj changed his flat tire.

Dear Tire Gods,

I am not taking any shots at Pj here. I know and understand that flats happen to all of us and are nothing to poke fun at. It could happen to anyone. Please don't punish me.

Love Ian

But riding over the Mississippi was crazy! All I wanted to do was stop and take a good look at this massive river. It's huge! But there were 4 lanes of busy traffic with no shoulders. None. I remember having about 6 inches of room on each side of my panniers. To my right, a cement guardrail to prevent anything from falling 100 or more feet into the river. To my left, nothing but honking (angrily) traffic. Semis were the worst. But it definitely is cool to be able to say I did it! We then rode the "no shoulder" intersate where I was almost hit by a truck. Like I said in Kansas, I hate freeways.

Me and Pj got seperated for a few tense moments while we dodged traffic through merging lanes and I got long wires stuck in my equipment...all in the complete darkness. Finally we found a hotel to stay at. (Safe?) We are in what seems to be "the hood" of Baton Rouge. Blacks outnumber whites here by 20 to 1 here. Man we stick out like sore thumbs. A couple of white dudes, rare, on bikes, rarer, from Canada..."you got to be kiddin me!"in a lazy southern accent is a common phrase lately. But once again, people are amazingly friendly and willing to help out. God bless you people...really.

Our room is a run down apartment that has slimy water, crooked beds, horrible kitchens and unusuable appliances. This is actually a popular place to live for university students who don't have much money the front desk lady tells me. I am only a little scared. Just kidding.

Tomorrow we are taking the day off to see Baton Rouge in the daylight. I hear it's nice. We will also take some pics of the Mississippi for you all as well!

November 15th Day 70. Denham Springs, Louisiana

Average Speed: 22.8 Km/h
Days Distance: 41.71 Km
Total Distance: 3346.65 Km

Well we still ended up doing 40 km's today. Not too bad considering it was our day off. We are now at a campground chain (no I'm not kidding) called KOA. They are all over the United States, Canada and Mexico. It's not too bad either. I mean, I stink and have no really good way to stay clean for long but it's cool. Nothing really much to report today.

All is well.

November 16th Day 71. Denham Springs, Louisiana

We were supposed to leave today, but after waking up late, and eating, I discovered that I had lost my Paypal Mastercard. It's our means to money on this whole trip. You see, I work on the internet and my Paypal card is where money is sent on paydays. So losing that card at a time when it holds over 80% of my available funds is not fun. It's like biking with one leg.

Now I have to borrow money until I get a new Paypal card and I hate asking my mom for money cause I know it comes with many questions, and my justifications of my lifestyle choices compared to my mothers standard of living. Oh well tho. I want this trip to continue however which means we are forced into camping and eating at grocery stores. Now we have to camp in order to live, or go home.

Camping ain't so bad.

November 17th Day 72. Denham Springs, Louisiana

I'm sitting outside a Wal Mart on our way to the Hammond KOA, another campground. Pj and I are in a dire situation. I lost my Mastercard as you already know, and will not see a new one for at least 2 weeks or 14 days as I now prefer to look at it. Terms of days rather than weeks. So much can happen in only one day. Mom and Dad had to lend me double the amount I asked to borrow and I still ended up with less than what I asked for cause I was so overdrawn on my credit card. It seems that some of the charges I made on it just hadn't gone through yet. Whoops....I am learning.

Mom and Dad, I am so sorry that you had to put yourselves in a tough situation to help me out. I feel horrible. I know I will carry this feeling for many days as well as I have nothing but time to think about how bad I feel and how little I can do to make it right. I am truly sorry.

I do have money now to help the trip continue. But I now must look at every purchase and ask if it is really necessary. I hate that but two months of hotels and eating out have put Pj and I in a situation that neither of us are happy about. Thank god it's warm. I want to continue on this trip as the ugliness of cold weather, slow biking, and unpleasant scenery have all pretty much dissapeared. But so has a lot of our money. I hope to do that we can carry on.

I feel the pressure I am carrying right now. Especially for Pj. I am sure he doesn't want to go home yet on my account. I'll do my best from now on to budget wisely and maybe even save a little for the sunny days.

November 18th Day 73. Hammond, Louisiana

Average Speed: 25.1 Km/h
Days Distance: 57.4 Km
Total Distance: 3404.05 Km

Happy birthday Dad!

A very short and easy ride today into our 2nd campsite and 4th night in a row of camping. Ya, I think we are finally doing it. Tent's all the way with maybe the occasional hotel to rest our bodies. The air mattresses do their job but are no match for soft mattresses, warm sheets, and fluffy pillows. KOA's are actually quite nice. they have lots of ammentities including, laundry service, showers, internet access, and grocery stores.

It almost feels cozy!

November 19th Day 74. Slidell, Louisiana

Average Speed: 26.0 Km/h
Days Distance: 98.11 Km
Total Distance: 3512.16 Km

Today we awoke to unexpected heavy rain. But my good ole Tarn-2 tent withstood the heavy Louisiana rainfall and kept me dry. The rain lasted until about 10:00AM which delayed our ride by quite a bit. We had to wait for it to stop raining before we packed up our gear. What was supposed to be an 80km ride turned into 100km's into the next KOA. It misted on us a lot of the way and once again we found ourselves riding on no shoulder highways with lots of angrily honking traffic and in complete darkness at the end of the ride.

We are currently less than 10km's away from the Mississippi border and about 50km's from central New Orleans and the 50 km long Cause Way Toll Bridge which spans the length of Lake Pontchartrain. It's actually the longest bridge in the world...or so I hear. We are also only a stone's throw away from the Gulf of Mexico. We can't see it yet, but can definitely feel it. The humidity here is unreal. It was enough to soak my skin along the ride today. I also noticed that the vegetation keeps getting more lush, green and wet. Lot's of vines, weeds, small variations of palm trees, and more....it's cool.

I am extremely excited to see the Gulf of Mexico tomorrow. We will actually camp on the shore tomorrow night at Bay St Louis KOA. Can't hardly wait. And the rest of the ride into Tampa Bay follows the coast closely so it should be a fabulous next 2-3 weeks.

We heard from our good friend Mike Vandenburgh tongiht. Remember the guy we met way back in Wyoming? Ya him! Once again Mike is extending his most sincere welcomes into his home for our stay in Tampa Bay. A million more thank you's Mike. This will never go unforgotten.

Hoss (Dallas, TX) wants to party again in Florida, his folks live there. Mike Aurthurs (Manhattan, KS) is booking time off work to come see us. Joe Scharf (Thunder Bay, Ontario) my great great friend and his family will be in Florida over christmas. And Pj's friend Tara (Vancouver, British Columbia) is also coming to see us. WOW!

It should be a truly amazing time. We have nothing but good things to look forward to.

I am truly happy.

November 20th Day 75. Bay St. Louis, Mississippi

Average Speed: 25.5 Km/h
Days Distance: 50.76 Km
Total Distance: 3562.92 Km

Happy birthday Shelby! I miss you so much kiddo and I love you!

Well we made it to the coast of the Gulf of Mexico after a very scenic ride. Tough, but scenic. However, we still haven't seen the dam coast. After setting up camp at the local KOA, in the rain I might add, Pj and I took a walk down the road to view the Gulf Coast for the first time ever. It rained harder as we left but we were determined to see it. The KOA owner said it was only one mile down the road so what the hell...we'll walk. After walking almost two miles with no Gulf in sight, and soaking wet, we decided to treat ourselves to some seafood, it's inexpensive here and tastes amazing, supposedly.

Well that didn't work out either as we couldn't find a seafood place and the small bar we stopped in on had called us a cab but after hours of waiting we figured it wouldn't come. So we just had a few 2 for 1 beers instead and walked home in the now pouring rain. We will see the Gulf tommorrow I hope.

On the ride out here the wind blew in our faces but it was flat so we were able to keep our speeds over 25 km/h. We rode past many muddy and weedy rivers (bayous?) that all flowed towards the Gulf. On one particular stretch two rivers, one on each side of the highway, ran along with us for miles. There were houses just on the other side of the river to our left side and all of them were built on stilts to save them in case of flooding. They also all had rickety old bridges crossing the river to their properties. Many of the bridges looked to old to be standing, weak and were over taken with vines and weeds. Lot's of things are here...houses, old rusting cars, road signs, telephone poles and even in some cases the wires are also covered in vines and weeds. It's very cool to see.

We also passed the Mississippi border and some epople running a burning torch down the highway. They had 4 police escorts, a support van, and media taking pics of them. We're biking over half the globe and we got nothing...go figure.

November 21st Day 76. Bay St. Louis, Mississippi

Today I took the opportunity to bike 30 kms to see a great big chunk of Bay St. Louis and the Gulf of Mexico. Highway 90 runs right along the beach for as many miles as we can ride in a day. I rode right on the shores and I waded through it's shallow waters in low tide. And I did it all on a sunny day as well which really iced the cake.

Hopefully my tan got some darker. November 22nd Day 77. Pascagoula, Mississippi

Average Speed: 25.8 Km/h
Days Distance: 89.32 Km
Total Distance: 3652.24 Km

About 80% of todays ride was done right alongside the shores and beaches of the Gulf. We also rode through some small scale resort/casino towns such as Biloxi. They are nice but we don't have time or money to stop in. We decided on a good rest tonight after a week of camping and sprung $44 for a hotel. I'm scared here and this time I am not kidding.

Some big black guy, seemed nice and all, watched as we pulled into our rooms on our bikes. He actually waited right outside our open door, and I had to close the door in his face before he would leave. We went out to eat and when we came back, everything was still there, but someone keeps knocking on our Hotel door, don't know who, we didn't answer it but go away! Hope we are ok through the night. I'm sure we will be tho.

Tomorrow we have to figure out how to cross the 11 km bridge or tunnel. Both are dangerous and we don't really want to attempt them after riding over other no shoulder bridges...to dangerous. We'll figure it out.

November 23rd Day 78. Daphne, Alabama

Average Speed: 24.3 Km/h
Days Distance: 81.06 Km
Total Distance: 3733.30 Km

Oh boy, what a crazy day. Pretty early on in the ride we met up with a couple of other touring cyclists like us. We actually had passed them twice the other day. I passed them the first time whizzing by but saying hello out loud with thumbs up. Then we broke for lunch, got back on our bikes and passed them again. Well today I decided I wanted to talk to them. But what they told us sent us on a wild 50 km goose chase.

Don't worry Bennie and Helga, we didn't even lose one day and in fact found the solution to the bridge/tunnel problem we were telling you about.

Bennie and Helga have been touring for about 50 days but have been in Canada, US and Mexico for a bit. They left Mexico deciding it was too dangerous with the Federales. But I am pretty sure their heavy German accents coupled with the Federales Spanish vocabulary didn't bode well for conversations with the authorities. Anyhow, they asked which route we were taking and we showed them our 50 km plan up to Mobile, Alabama and then hope to catch a ride over the bridge or through the tunnel past Mobile Bay.

But Helga said he saw that and showed us his route. It was the same distance biking but avoided the tunnel/bridge scenario and added a ride on a small island named Dauphin Island and also a ferry ride. So we immediately changed our plans. We arrived at Dauphin Island after crossing a beauty 5 km bridge with wide shoulders and maybe 9 cars past us the whole way across. Once there we rode all the way to where the ferry boards. But the parking lot was full of cars who were simply turning around.

No ferry...WHAT?!?

Pj tells me he was a sign a while back that said "No Ferry" but he chose to ignore it due to all the passing traffic heading our same direction. I, probably like the traffic Pj saw, did not see the no ferry sign so I was doubly surprised when Pj told me about it. So now we are a full day back on bikes just to get to Mobile and deal with the bridge/tunnel situation. So with knowing that getting angry wouldn't get me anywhere, I quickly got over it and me and Pj set off to try and eat and find a ride into Mobile to correct our big goose chase. Then we see two cyclers, one with a Canadian biking jersey, cycle up to us and start up a conversation.

Adrian is a British Columbian who is in grad school for Marine Biology. Her biking partner and boyfriend Jason from Louisiana was doing the same. We we quickly told them about our situation and they quickly offered to help us out by driving us not only to Mobile, but also through the tunnel under Mobile Bay to safety!

Adrian and Jason, thank you! You saved us a day of biking, and when your cycling, that's a lot! So thank you! And you got us across Mobile Bay...awesome!

So we took them out for supper to say thanks the off to bed....I was so sleepy after this crazy day I almost feel asleep at supper!

November 24th Day 79. Perdido Bay, Alabama

Average Speed: 24.0 Km/h
Days Distance: 73.78 Km
Total Distance: 3807.88 Km

So I think I am superman today cause on the last few days we have been crusin, and I'm feeling like I'm takin it easy! So today I decided to try and ride the hardest gear I have all the way. It wasn't that much of a stretch either as the last two days I was pretty much doing it anyways. But todays ride had strong headwinds and surprisingly enough, hills. So after 40 km's of actually doing it, my knees were done. The rest of the way I had to do on easier gears and slow. I will be fine, I just won't do that again.

We are at a KOA campground sitting on a dock on Perdido Bay staring across the waters to the shores of Florida, which is only 5 kms away. Tomorrow we will be in Florida and are only 8 biking days away from our first long break. I can't wait.

November 25th Day 80. Destin, Florida

Average Speed: 24.7 Km/h
Days Distance: 100.25 Km
Total Distance: 3908.13 Km

Today we crossed the Florida state line. I knew it was coming but didn't feel excited about it right up until I saw the Florida State sign. Then I kinda got all giddy and excited. I can't wait to take a long rest in warmth and comfort.

As soon as we crossed into Florida I noticed abrupt changes. Nicer highways and much better taken care of. There are also bike paths....ya, bike paths! Not that Alabama or Mississippi was ugly or bad, but Florida thus far is quite impressive in it's beauty. Lot's of stuff to see today along the ride which was so beautiful. It helps me concentrate on something other than the knee pains I have been having. Not to worry, one day of rest after tomorrows ride will be plenty to heal my pains.

We are doing our first free camping in a long time. Right off the highway on the shore of some bay. It's actually quite nice. The only bad thing was the 2 inch long freaky bug that scared the shit out of me in my tent. The big ugly bastard was crawling on the inside roof of my tent. I went to put on my biking gloves to get rid of it. I didn't really feel like grabbing it with my bare hands, and was surprised by another of the same bug only twice as big and ugly right in the palm of my glove, which was in my pannier. How the hell did something that big get in there?

Shit....it's gonna be tough to sleep tonight.

November 26th Day 81. Panama City Beach, Florida

Average Speed: 24.5 Km/h
Days Distance: 112.56 Km
Total Distance: 4020.69 Km

We broke 4000 km's today!

Well first we went an whole bunch of extra kilometers cause whoever is in charge of putting up the signs for "bridge out" situations was on vacation. Not one sign to tell us that a whole bridge, not just one or two lanes, but the whole thing was gone. The construction workers were replacing the dam thing. Good thing the scenic route was beautiful otherwise the whole thing would have been a great waste of time!

Then Pj seemed to be leading me to a place without really knowing where he was going. It just turned out that where we were going didn't even exist anymore. This actually was funny as it was in the 2002 Edition of the KOA Directory....what the hell is that?

But as we were figuring stuff out in a parking lot, I met a guy named John who told us of a great place named Foghorns bar and he even showed up for a few drinks himself. What a great way to start a day off, and end a great week of biking!

November 27th Day 82. Panama City Beach, Florida

Great day off.

November 28th Day 83. Apalachicola, Florida

Average Speed: 24.6 Km/h
Days Distance: 110.54Km
Total Distance: 4131.23Km

It was a long ride but very nice. We are along the shores of the Gulf of Mexico still but the scenery changes always. Beach towns turn quickly to resort towns and then into small fishing villages. Palm trees were replaced by towering pines today which was very nice to bike through. However it wasn't enough to keep me from concentrating on my knee pains. They are still with me and are now slowing me down a bit. I will start trying to experiment with different postions on my bike.

November 29th Day 84. Apalachicola, Florida

Well we didn't even finish one kilometer when the thing that you never want to happen on a bike trip happened. Pj was in a car/bike accident. We had just left for our days ride into Alligator Point when a car turned right while Pj kept going forward. Since the driver turned so suddenly in front of Pj, he had no time to turn and smacked right into the side of the car who cut him off. I didn't really get to good of a view of the whole thing although I was riding right behind him and knew immediatley when this happened.

My heart went into my stomach and I raced to see Pj getting up from the ground. His panniers were all over, his front bike tire was mangled, and his face and hands were starting to bleed, but I knew pretty quickly that he was ok. Now what about the bike? Well, immediately a whole crowd of people came running over to either say they saw what happened or to offer help. We were offered food, rides to places, but best of all a super guy named Eric offered to fix Pj's bike and give us a place to stay for the night while we sorted ourselves out. So we took him up on his offer.

Turns out Eric and Kate are also touring cyclists, from British Columbia, and they know a lot about fixing bikes, and everything else for that matter. So we hopped in with him and Kate, and their dog Noah. They were a wealth of help and comfort to Pj and I. Thank you guys so much for everything that you did for us. Hope to see you on the road some day...who knows, maybe we will plan something!

For now we are safe and warm at Eric and Kates. My knee is actually hurting quite a bit again due to a small but quick ride we all took to a local seafood place. Only a 30 km ride and with no panniers, but we raced and it quickly dissagreed with my knee. I am not sure if we will leave tomorrow or stay here another day. Depends on the knee.

November 30th Day 85. Alligator Point, Florida

Average Speed: 26.9Km/h
Days Distance: 77.53 Km
Total Distance: 4208.23Km

We decided to leave today at about 2 PM. I didn't even wake up until 1 but my knee was only hurting a little so I decided to ride. Heck, only 5 more riding days into Tampa Bay where we will start our month long fiesta!

I think I have figured out how to stop a lot of the pain in my knees...shift my seat forward a half-inch. I rode at the top of my seat for most of the ride today and my knees didn't hurt so hopefully that will be the answer to that problem.

I am a little upset today as well as I found out that I have lost my journal in which I write every night. Well, I left it back at Eric and Kates house. It will be only 5 or 6 days until I see it again, I will ask them to mail it to Tampa, but I love writing in it every night. For now I will do my journal entries right into the computer I guess. Oh well.

We arrived late into the KOA at Alligator Point. But the coolest thing is a walk to a looong pier that goes way out into the Gulf. The night is super black but the stars are brilliant and bright. It's an amazing view.

Don't forget, it's a new month....December entry time! YAY!

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